TH 32" EPP Slick Super-Lite Rain

I'll start with the negative, and there is only one. At the time of this review the build manual does not use pictures of this plane and even instructs you to cut some lengths of carbon to a length that's incorrect for this model. Keep this in mind when you are building out the fuselage trussing. Also, IMO, medium CA is the better glue for foam to carbon joints and foam-tac for foam to foam. The manual asks you to use thin CA all the way. If you want to stain the finish with white hot flashed thin CA while using more glue than you need and gluing the model to the table with every drop of thin you use then go ahead and use thin. I would have awarded 5 stars if it were not for these problems. Rant OFF. On to the good... :) This is just like every plane manufactured by the RCFactory in that the EPP used is just the best you'll ever work with. Very consistent and smooth. All the laser cutting is as good as it'll get, nearly perfectly square. Especially compared to something that might come from HobbKing or the other low cost competitors. The Carbon included is fine carbon. It's not the stiffest carbon out there but it has give and you won't be snapping carbon rods in a crash. Included hardware is what we expect from an RCF plan with the snap together control horns and the grub screws for making an adjustable linkage. I built mine using a SunnySky x2302 1650kv, Emax 9051's on the tail, a Futaba S3114 on the ailerons, FrSky XMR receiver, Spedix 20A esc, and 300Mah 45C Tattu 2s lipos. AUW with battery came in at 120 grams using basic lightening strategies. Decasing servos, esc, no motor connectors, etc. So it is pretty easy to make this plane quite light. The x2302 1650kv has ok power, I'm running an APC 3DSF 8041 prop and it would probably run better with a 9 inch at that low 1650kv. I suggest carbon though if you want to run 9 inch. The 2302 isn't a torque monster, it's a small motor. A heavy glass-fiber 9 inch prop on the end would make throttle response too lazy. If you want to cheap out on props then run the APC 8041. If you don't, a Carbon PT 9 inch would give it better bit and throttle response. In stock form the ES9051 servos don't have much precision to offer. The s3114 is pretty good however. Regardless I modded all three servos in my plane with the PCB out of a BlueArrow D01013 servo. these PCB's have the fully programmable KC9806 digital servo chip. This gives you much greater precision. I'm experimenting with lowering the duty cycle parameter to allow my standard voltage servos to tolerate straight 2s voltage. 15 flights in so far and no issues. :) At 120 grams it is just a dream to fly. Everything happens at such a relaxed pace it makes me look like a much better pilot than I am. This is on top of the good Aero design. It tracks awesome, very low coupling in knife edge. All that good stuff. Something about this plane just makes tail slides perfect every time as well. Could not be happier with the airframe and this is my new favorite. I did find it quite gentle and flexy however. I really really like this. But if you want to build this plane heavy and run 3s outdoors it will need reinforcement. A more flexible model for this purpose is the Crack Laser Pro. The CLP doesn't have such enormous ailerons and trades that for very stiff ailerons. It also has a stiffer vertical stab. Anyways, if you are looking for a plane that has no problem coming in very light with the right gear and flies great for indoor/perfectly calm backyard 3d this is the one.